Gigs from Aboard Part 13 Vietnam – Part 2

We continued our Vietnam trip in 2014/15 by heading over to Phu Quoc, an island off the south coast where we spent Christmas Day and the trickiest challenge whilst there was to decide whether I preferred either Saigon Red or Saigon Green beer (for the record it was a marginal preference for the Green).  

When we were sat outside the cabin one evening, we witnessed the surreal sight of a cockerel casually walking down the path and then up the steps of the lodgings opposite. It then proceeded to tap its beak on the door and waited patiently, after two attempts with no reply it retraced its route and strutted off into the sunset.

‘Not the actual cockerel’. Image Credit raising-happy-chickens.com

I was at that point checking that I wasn’t drinking a Saigon ‘special’ beer but then gathered the intel from our neighbours that the previous owners had been feeding it, but they had flown home that morning leaving our resident cockerel shy of a snack that evening. This event reminded me of a story in Paul Auster’s ‘True Tales of American Life’, a book I would heartily recommend.  

Our next destination was Hoi An, with its ancient town and bustling marketplace and excellent food. We hired bicycles for a couple of days and cycled out to the nearby beach and into the residential areas where the tannoy’s on the street spouted out their ongoing Government propaganda.

When we were in a particularly touristy area of Singapore, we were stung with a beer price of nearly £10 (near to Manchester Ritz prices!), but in total contrast in one restaurant in Hoi An I obviously had to sample their local moonshine beer at 42p a pint. Unsurprisingly it was pretty poor fare! As we had been away for a sustained period, there was one night where we craved some different food. In this regard, we discovered a nearby Australian diner called Dingo Deli where we feasted on some excellent cheese on toast and drinkable coffee!   

Dingo Deli. Image Credit tripadvisor.jn.

On New Years Eve we headed down to the busy bars at Hoi An Harbour where they had set up a big stage for the celebrations, and performing was a local act called Louie, who were then followed by a fireworks display.  The only downside was the monsoon weather, so we saw the New Year in with a very tasty doughnut from a street trader before heading back to our digs.

A couple of days later we walked past Hoi An Que Nha Bar on the way to a restaurant and intriguingly we could see a stage set up. We passed a couple of hours later and the place was in full flow, and we were encouraged through the door by the local punters outside. To our astonishment we were provided front row seats in the packed bar resulting in envious glances from later attendees.  

Hoi An river view. Image Credit pinterest.

The venue was in effect a karaoke bar with backing music provided by a band called Hang Truang. We had no idea of the required etiquette as we crouched down on the little stools, but gathered quickly that karaoke was a serious business here and is all about the audience reaction though it turns out we had vastly different viewpoints than the other customers.

One singer who we thought was high quality was subjected to a brutally complete silence at the end of the track, but another performer who literally murdered ‘Yesterday’ by the Beatles was rewarded with roses thrown on the stage. I also unintentionally caused a bit of chaos by breaking the lavatory door, and I had only had a couple of drinks! We stayed for about an hour and thoroughly enjoyed our karaoke experience and it was a fascinating insight into the local culture.   

Gigs from Abroad Part 13 – Vietnam Part 1

I have been fortunate in my lifetime to undertake two long haul trips, the first to Australia in 2007 and then subsequently to Vietnam over Christmas and New Year in 2014/15. We flew via Doha in Qatar and firstly had a 4 day sojourn to Singapore. We had previously visited with a quick stopover on the Oz trip but wanted a longer timespan to investigate the city more fully.

I have a fondness for Singapore as it is a very commutable city and has plenty of distractions. It also has some very fine food with the Hainanese Chicken Rice from one of the stalls on Chinatown Food Street being heaven on a plate, but with the Singapore Tea being right at the other end of the preference spectrum.  

Singapore skyline. Image Credit wallpaperup.com

We then flew onto Ho Chi Min (previously Saigon). Now where I do I start with this remarkable city, maybe let’s go right back to the taxi ride from the airport to our hotel where you receive your first sight and sounds of the busiest traffic I have ever witnessed, though remarkably I did not once witness any crashes or fist waving from the road users.

Crossing the road is a science in itself with in some places no natural crossing point. Thus, we navigated across and then returned over a four lane highway by the dubious process of copying the locals and just stepping out and waiting for cars and coaches to stop, which was in equal parts both scary and exhilarating and was nothing like the Green Cross Code!  

There were scooters everywhere, even on the pavement! They were multi-purpose modes of transport as we saw at different times on individual scooters a family of four, a tree trunk and even a fridge freezer!  In a novel concept the shops in particular streets are allocated to certain trades, so for example you would have a book street or an electrical goods street, makes it easy I guess to know where to head if you need a new washing machine!    

Quiet street in Ho Chi Minh. Image Credit blogspot.com

Vietnam’s past is well documented, so I won’t repeat here. The locals I encountered encouraged us to explore their history, but they were strictly eyes face forward regarding the future. In that respect, we attended the Independence Palace which was the site of the Fall of Saigon in 1975 and also visited the remarkable Chi-Chi tunnels. 

The musical background and heritage of Vietnam is a veritable melting pot. It was initially interlinked with religious festivals and utilised devices such as flutes, harps and zithers. There was also royal court music called Nha nhac which incorporated an instrument called the Cham drum. There is always in South Asian culture the influence of colours, and this is reflected in the names of Red and Yellow music, the former the layman’s name for revolutionary music conceived during the French colonial period.

There are more recent western influences in the conception of the polished V-pop genre resulting in many previous underground artists receiving international acclaim. This has also contributed to the huge upturn of interest in hip-hop and resultant game shows.

One direct musical influence that remained after the Vietnam War was an increasing popularity of rock and heavy metal, due to American music being introduced to the country. One modern band from Ho Chi Min who owe a debt to this are Microwave, so intriguingly named I had to have a listen to them, and they sound as if they have been influenced by Metallica. 

Microwave band. Image Credit youtube,com