Gigs from Abroad Part 21 – Porto (Part 1)

In July 2024, Gill and I made our debut visit to the intriguing and picturesque city of Porto (also known as Oporto), Portugal’s second largest city behind Lisbon. I can now see why it was pronounced as a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1996, and chosen as Best European destination in 2012, 2014 and 2017 and also became the joint European Capital of Culture alongside Rotterdam in 2001.

In 1387 John I of Portugal married Philippa of Lancaster, daughter of John of Gaunt. The latter geezer has an old grungy pub named after him in the centre of Lancaster and I am sure you will be unsurprised to learn that I have seen a band there! At that time the world’s oldest recorded military alliance, the Treaty of Windsor was signed between the two countries.

Famous people from the city include Ferdinand Magellan the globe circumnavigator, Olympic marathon winner Rosa Mota, footballer Dioga Jota and Rui Reininho, lead singer of rock band GNR, whose most renowned album was ‘Rock in Rio Douro’ released in 1992 and it topped the Portuguese charts for a remarkable nine months.

The other famous ex-resident is the Harry Potter author JK Rowling who was an English teacher there between 1991 and 1993. It is said that the impressive art deco Livraria Lello bookshop inspired her vision of Hogwarts, and she began drafting the first novel while ensconced in the city. We only managed to view the shop from the outside as we shuffled past as there were astoundingly long queues.     

Livrario Lello bookshop. Image Credit pandotrip.com

The city centre suffered a dramatic loss of population between 1970 and 2010 before tourism breathed new life back into the area, the previously abandoned buildings being turned into shops and fashionable restaurants, and even a McDonalds is now contained within one of those grand structures. My pal Jason Bax captured it perfectly with his apposite description of ‘charmingly derelict’ when he visited the city to attend the Coliseum to see Nick Cave back in 2008.

On our trip, we left from Manchester on a brutally early Sunday flight and arrived in the city late morning and grabbed some lunch opposite our hotel located within a stone’s throw of the atmospheric Sao Bento train station with its 20,000 glazed tiles designed by Portuguese painter Jorge Colaco.  

Later that day we headed over the hugely striking Porto Ponte de Dom Luis I Bridge over the River Douro, where you can walk across either on the lower level or across the higher level with the expansive views and you amble in the shared space alongside the metro. Just prior to there was a chap called Carlos who was serenading the punters with some jaunty tuneage.

Ponte de Dom Luis Bridge I. Image Credit creativemarket.com

Now I must say I am very partial to a good bridge and there are some absolute crackers here with the first one being built in 1806. The Dom Luis I followed in 1886, and another was designed by Gustav Eiffel, the chap who built that other one in Paris! The additional impressiveness only increases when you consider the fact of the extremely challenging logistics of their design as there are such steep drops down to the riverbank. Later on in the trip we went on a river cruise under all of these structures, which was a visual treat.

On the far side of the bridge in the Ribeira area, we arrived at Porto Jardim do Morro which sits at a historically significant location as it was contained within the Serra do Pilar grounds. This area housed an Augustinian monastery built in 1670, that due to its elevated position played an integral role during the Siege of Porto (1832-34) in Portugal’s Civil War. It is also the location of Sao Joao Festival, a traditional event that takes place every June and includes a firework display set against the panoramic background.   

Jardim do Morro. Image Credit portomoments.com

It is a very bonny green space and as we discovered a really popular communal area with a posse of families basking on the grass in the evening sunshine. There were ice cold beers and Ruffles crisps on sale from a nearby kiosko, both of which we obviously partook in and joined the locals in watching the sunset. Whilst we there we witnessed a local singer called Tiago Macarata.  

What I became instantly aware of is that are singers/artists dotted everywhere across the city, thus I have honed the ones recorded in my annals down to acts witnessed outside specific bars and restaurants where we happened to be residing.   

Afterwards we left Jardim do Morro we headed down to the Ribiera riverfront to hunt down some tea at the swathe of restaurants in that area and post-tucker we saw Mick playing a set in Porto Theophilu’s Bar. Later on, outside another bar we saw Sally yodelling on the Porto Promenade.

Gigs from Abroad Part 10 – Puerto Del Carmen

As cited previously in my Gigs from Abroad Part 4 blog I have undertaken several trips to the Canarian Island of Lanzarote and mainly visited the Puerto Del Carmen resort, which lies about five miles from Arrecife airport.

On the island In September/October each year they hold the Arrecife En Vivo over four weekends over four stages in the capital and the person who guides you to the next stage is an Elvis impersonator with a large foam hand! I have not yet managed to time a visit to coincide with this event but hope to rectify that in a future year.

Many of the gigs that follow below are generally low-key cover acts but adopting a completist mode I must document every single event that I have attended, otherwise my story would be unfinished!

We had one separate holiday in the other resort of Costa Teguise in 2012 and whilst in residence we visited Costa Teguise La Vida where we saw Dale Sullivan play.

There is a coastal path/cycle route that runs from Costa Teguise, through Arrecife town, past the airport and Matagorda to reach Playa de los Pocillos. This is a sleepy resort and I witnessed here a chap called Joshua play in the Lanzarote Chill Out Bar and Pedro perform in Lanzarote Rocos Blancos.

We walked back one evening from the resort to Puerto Del Carmen and there was a late set on from River Mills in a restaurant called Lanzarote La Avenida. Between the resorts is the Lanzarote Plaza de Nationale, which has a mini amphitheatre where on one occasion there was a local festival taking place and on a temporary stage the Desi Jockeys were performing.  

After walking past the excellent yet challenging crazy golf course you enter the mile long strip at Puerto Del Carmen and at the Lanzarote California Bar, I saw Hazel White play. Beyond there you reach the casino and Lanzarote Café De Ola which sits behind it, and you can watch the sea and the sunset. We have twice seen Storming Thunder who were half decent, but their stage banter was distinctly lacking in charisma, I have also seen a saxophonist called Jake Hanson play there.    

Cafe de Ola. Image Credit tripadvisor.com.sg

Next to the casino resides the first ever bar we entered on our inaugural trip to the island called Lanzarote Golden Corner, where I have seen Mark Spulzenberger and Pete Edwards play. Across the road is the Lanzarote Goofy Burger, outside of which they have a regular singer called Carlos. He may be in his elder years but has a terrific voice and I recall him doing an excellent cover of Buddy Holly’s ‘Rave On’.

Five minutes’ walk away, opposite the Tourist Information resides Dos Mil, an unprepossessing supermarket café, but they serve the most wonderful pastries and cakes. Just beyond is a fantastic oriental restaurant called Asia Delicious where we have frequented many times, and that is where we sampled the local liquor Caramello for the first time!

A doorway next to there takes you down into the dingy den of Lanzarote Mulligans where I have seen Brian Duke, Los Handos and Nigel Hardacre perform. Back on upper street level brings you to one of my favourite bars Lanzarote Africa Bar, where you can play pool, sit on beer barrels facing the sea or watch the pretty good bands on stage. I have seen the Usual Suspects, Aftershock and Africa United there.   

Africa Bar. Image Credit tripadvisor.co.uk

Continuing down the strip and you arrive at Lanzarote Tequila Bar where I saw a ‘Spinal Tap’ inspired band called Question play. Beyond there is the Lanzarote American Indian Café which is a restaurant by day and then converts into an enjoyable music spot in the evening. We have spent a few nights suppling ice-cold Mahou’s and munching on Frutos Secos, I have witnessed Perfect Circus and Alanis Band perform there. I recall once our waiter suddenly scampering off and the reason for this action then became abundantly clear as he walked up to the microphone and undertook the guest vocals on the next track!   

The end of the strip is signified by the famous Linekers’s bar, though in reality it is bit of an uninspiring establishment. Shortly after you locate Lanzarote Lava Bar. When we were in residence there was some fine-looking tucker arriving from the kitchen and Gerry and Gina were tinkling away on the piano.

Subsequently, you then arrive in the old town and harbour where there are restaurants where you can watch locals playing some very high-quality boules in the adjoining sand pits. You can also undertake the hour long walk across a very dusty and warm cliff top path to the resort of Puerta Calero.

In the old town there is a more traditional music venue called Lanzarote Electric Island which is a fun place to visit. We have attended there twice watching the Electric Island house band and supping their Malagan beer which for some undiscernible reason makes us sway on the walk back!   

Electric Island Bar. Image Credit tripadvisor.ca

Finally, some steps take you up one of the resorts best fish restaurants, namely Lanzarote Mardeleva. It is constantly booked up but one night we managed to fortuitously grab a walk-in table and it was worth the effort. In the doorway there was a highly traditional artist called Monty Montana playing and we were hoping but ultimately without success that he would play ‘Quando Quando’!