Year: 2024

London Eleventh and Twelfth Trips

I have travelled a few times down to London with work and at one stage was visiting a company who were based nearby to Moorgate station and adjacent to London Finsbury Square. In 1784 the Square witnessed the first successful attempt of a hot air balloon flight and there is also a memorial installed there to commemorate the 1975 Moorgate tube crash where 43 people perished.  

Finsbury Square. Image Credit londonplanning.org.uk

In the summer of 2017 after leaving a meeting I was headed back to the tube for the journey home and heard music playing. In the early 20th century, the square was home to the London Royal Yeomanry and on that day the Band of Royal Yeomanry (Inns of Court & City Yeomanry) were playing a gig.

Their regimental history dates to 1548 and the band formed in 1961. They perform at many events, including D-Day memorials in Normandy and 6 Nations matches at Twickenham. They still maintain their original ceremonial uniform of French blue jacket and trousers, chain mailed shoulders, George boots and spurs and Chapka helmets.

Band of Royal Yeomanry Band. Image Credit flickr.com

I have always been a huge fan of Hold Steady and have now seen them nine times in total and they sit in bronze medal position of my bands most seen list. That figure would undoubtedly be higher if not for the fact that they have not played a Manchester date since 19/10/14. The reason for this dearth is that they have chosen since then to just play an annual three-day residency in London with no other regional dates.

As a result, we decided to make a pilgrimage down to the smoke in 2019 as I was missing my Hold Steady fix! Their base for their seasonal jaunt is in the thriving Camden suburb of the city. I met Uncle George and John Dewhurst off the train, and we dropped our bags at the handy location of Euston Premier Inn.  We then headed off on the Northern tram line to find our first hostelry, the Dingwalls pub on Camden Lock overlooking the canal.

My first visit to that establishment was in 1987 when I saw Brilliant Corners supported by a yet undiscovered Happy Mondays. The pub has certainly gone through a regentrification phase since then, but they still have live music there on a regular basis.  We also had a foray to the Old Eagle public house and to refuel we hit a local pie shop but there were unfortunately no butter pies on sale!

The Hold Steady show took place at London Camden Electric Ballroom. The Ballroom is a long-established venue and has been in place for 80 years. It began its days as an Irish club where the crooner Jim Reeves used to play and adopted its current name in 1978. There used to be a weekend indoor market staged there and was in place until 2015. It survived potential demolition in 2004 when there was a proposal to redevelop Camden Town underground station.

Camden Electric Ballroom. Image Credit Electric Ballroom

There are two dance floors and four bars contained within and it has a capacity of 1500 and there was good viewing of the stage from any vantage point.  They launched straight in with the vibrant ‘Stuck Between Stations’ and didn’t let up for the next 24 tracks, it was another thoroughly enjoyable performance.

It was also appropriate as a milestone event as it was Uncle George’s and I 500th gig together, a mere 32 years since our first, a staggeringly good Pogues show at Manchester International 2. Our 100th was also a belter with Black Rebel Motorcycle playing the Mill, a small club in Preston.  

After the set had finished, George and I progressed onto London Camden Monarch for number 501. The original Monarch prior to 2000 was in another area of Camden which then became the music venue Barfly. The new Monarch opened in 2008 in a new site on Chalk Farm Road and the DJ on the opening night was none other than Amy Winehouse!

The pub subsequently closed in 2020 but reopened the following year under the new moniker Monarchy retaining the live music in a downstairs events space called the Vault.  On the night we visited a local indie band called Stay Club took to the stage.    

Manchester Venue 123 to 125

Manchester St Ann’s Square near Deansgate in the city centre has a long history dating back to 1708. When the Act of Parliament that granted the initial build of St Ann’s Church was approved there was an additional stipulation that a 30-yard space should be retained for the fair which had toll entry gates and was a primary place to hire servants. The fair area then became the square and was named after the monarch of the time.

The adjoining conservation space was home to the Cotton Exchange which morphed into the current Royal Exchange in 1874, at that stage containing the largest trading floor in the country. The building is now utilised as a thriving theatre.  

St Ann’s Square with Royal Exchange Theatre. Image Credit Manchester Evening News.

On one corner of the square is the back entrance to one of Manchester grandest pubs Mr Thomas’s Chop House which was opened in 1867 by its founder Thomas Stubbs. It is a Grade II listed building and has many of the original features. The main entrance is on Cross Street directly opposite one of my favourite Chinese restaurants in town, the Rice Bowl.

Nearby is the legendary basement bar Corbieres initially opened by ex-Manchester City footballer Mike Doyle in 1978. It has always had the reputation of having a fine content on the jukebox and I always liked the tale of punters in there backing the winner of the 1983 Grand National on a horse called Corbiere and spending the winnings on ale in the bar for the rest of the day!

St Ann’s Square is one of the many sites utilised for the Christmas markets but is also the hub for other festivals. One such event was the annual Jazz festival which was based there in May 2019.  Coinciding with the day of this event, John Dewhurst and I were burning shoe leather across the length and breadth of the city in attendance at the sorely missed Dot to Dot festival.

Corbieres Bar. Image Credit manchestersfinest.com

As we passed through the square a band called Heavy Leno were on stage and as there was link up that year with the Manchester Food and Drink festival, we took the opportunity to grab a seat for a beer and a pizza stop. This was in addition to other 20 venues we visited that day! Earlier this year in March the Irish festival tent run by the O’Sheas bar was located there and I witnessed a band called The Cullodens play.

The aforementioned Manchester St Anns Church was only the third church to be consecrated in the city. The church narrowly escaped damage from a Luftwaffe raid during World War 2 and apparently still has a burnt-out incendiary bomb which landed on the roof.

It contains within an organ that dates to 1730 which has expanded over the years and now contains 54 speaking stops. The church has for a long time been linked up with the Royal Northern College of Music (RNCM), and students perform recitals there. I happened to be passing one afternoon in June last year and I could hear tuneage so snuck in and I caught a portion of one such RNCM Organ recital.   

St Ann’s Church. Image Credit Geograph Britain and Ireland.

The adjacent street to the church is Manchester King Street which for many years has been one of the main shopping streets in the city and was the first city centre street to be fully given over to pedestrian use in 1976. On my birthday in 2019 we have been for a meal and discovered there was a pop-up stage in place on King St, the reason for which I cannot recall. Performing on the said stage was a local singer songwriter called Dee Olares.