Other British Gigs 5 – Ayr

I always readily jump at every opportunity available to head North of the border and one of my favourite places to visit is the town of Ayr. The town is situated on the southwest coast of Scotland and lies just south of Prestwick Airport.

The main musical claim to fame of the airport occurred on the date of 3rd March 1960 when a certain Sergeant Elvis Presley had a stopover as he was just finishing up his national service. Upon alighting from the plane, he reputedly asked ‘Where Am I?’. Due to the astonishingly unhealthy control his ‘manager’ Colonel Tom Parker held over him this was rather mournfully the only two hours he ever spent on British land!

Elvis has left the plane! Image Credit pinterest.com

Ayr is a popular tourist destination due to its railway links and the fact that it has a fabulous beach slap bang in the centre of town. Robert Burns was born nearby and there is also a considerable musical heritage with Stuart Murdoch (Belle and Sebastian), Simon Neil (Biffy Clyro) and Mike Scott (Waterboys) having been born there.  It was also obscurely recognised as the second healthiest town centre in the UK in 2014 by the Royal Society of Public Health.

I missed an opportunity to visit in the late 90’s when John and Tony Dewhurst and Uncle George had a very merry night in the many hostelries before the following day heading to catch the ferry at Wemyss Bay over to the Isle of Bute.

The reason for them visiting this unusual location was to witness a famous Mogwai gig in Rothesay on the island. I was always then under the impression that the band headed back on a chartered boat with fans to the Port of Glasgow whilst undertaking a DJ set, but Stuart Braithwaite corrects me on that take of events in his recent autobiography where they actually stayed on Bute that evening and had their own private party.    

A random fact for you now, Rothesay Castle is one of a very small list of castles in Scotland that still has a remaining moat. The source of this information was from a line in an Iain Banks book Raw Spirit, purchased in a charity shop in Settle, that I am currently reading where he went in search of the perfect Whiskey dram. Iain remains my favourite ever author and his early untimely death in 2013 still stings alongside the corresponding loss of the delightful anticipation of waiting for his latest novel to be released.

Gill and I have visited Ayr a couple of times to attend the Gold Cup and the Scottish Grand National meetings at the nearby racecourse where they have been held since 1965. On the second occasion I recall it being absolute carnage on the packed shuttle bus back into town, but in a Scottish high jink’s fun kind of way!

On our initial visit in 2011 we stayed the night before the races due to the long commute journey involved getting there. There were some fantastic restaurants located in the town including a superb ‘cheap as chips’ Chinese place next to the Wetherspoons and Gill still contends she sampled the best ever Lasagne in one of the Italian restaurants.   

On the Wednesday night, I was corresponding with my pal Tony Dewhurst who was down in Somerset to potentially witness Lancashire Cricket Club win their first County Championship title for 77 years, but it was looking very unlikely at that stage. On the Thursday morning, we took a life-affirming walk along the beach trying to pick some winners for the day and the sunshine was thankfully cracking the flags.

Ayr ‘Riviera’ Beach at night. Image Credit Pinterest.

After the meeting had finished, we headed into the Ayr Racecourse Horseshoe Bar to allow the crowds to clear before heading back into town.  As we were chatting to another couple a local band called Sistrum booted up and played a set in the corner of the room.

In the taxi back into Ayr I got a text from Tony informing me that Lancashire had just sealed the title, so a glass was thus raised to their historic achievement in an Irish bar near to the station, prior to having a superb curry to finish the trip in style.  

Wickerman Festival 14

A degree of sadness pervades as I draft this week’s blog as it details the fourteenth and last ever Wickerman Festival to be held which took place on 24/25 July 2015. There were rumours for over a year around the future of the event, eventually resulting in the confirmation later in 2015 that Wickerman would be no more leaving a huge chasm in my annual gig calendar!

On the bill were the Waterboys, who I recall I first become aware of when they played the Tube on a Friday teatime on Channel 4, also playing were Squeeze whose set I enjoyed. Glasgow post punks Catholic Action and electronic synth band Ubre Blanca, bizarrely named after Fidel Castro’s favourite cow were also in residence, alongside Errors, Belle and the Beast, Beth Fourage, Be Charlotte, Wayne Devre Set, Sister Fox, Vaselines and the grungy Tuff Love.  

The punk contingent was covered by Amphetameanies and stalwarts Eddie and the Hot Rods with their timeless Top 10 hit ‘Do Anything You Wanna Do’, their only constant member being singer Barrie Masters, prior to his death in 2019. 

Cellist Calum Ingram headlined the Acoustic Tent and the reggae/ska corner had Jimmy Cliff with his ‘Many Rivers to Cross’. There was hip-hop from Hector Bizerk and main stage performances from Lulu, Stereo MC’s, the ever-impressive Neneh Cherry and Pere Ubu who I did once own one album by, namely ‘The Tenement Year’ however the only song I can recall is ‘George Had a Hat’.  

Neneh Cherry. Image Credit djdmac.com

Folk tones were ensured by Glasgow five-piece Washington Irving, John Bramwell, frontman from I Am Kloot, Chichester’s Tom Odell, Novantae! from Galloway and Rick Redbeard which was the solo performer stage name for Rick Anthony, lead singer for the Phantom Band.   

My notes also inform me that I saw SLUG who were promoting their debut album ‘Ripe’ though I cannot recall their performance. In the last two or three years they have received a lot more attention and received considerable radio airplay from the likes of Mark Reilly.

Aiden Moffett (of Arab Strap fame) and Bill Wells were also on the roster. We also headed over to the third stage to see the excellent Pains of Being Pure at Heart, who I was watching for the fifth and final time before their subsequent break up.

Many of my favourite Scottish bands had played this festival over the years including Teenage Fanclub, The View, The Proclaimers, Idlewild, Aerogramme and The Rezillos to name a few, however the cream of the crop Mogwai had never graced the festival.

This was partially rectified by Stuart Braithwaite, Mogwai main singer appearing for a solo set on the Acoustic stage which we obviously attended. I managed to have a brief photo shoot and chat with him and who knows if there had have been a following year perhaps Mogwai might have played, we shall never know! 

John Dewhurst, Uncle George, Stuart Braithwaite and me replete with dubious festival hat in the Acoustic Tent. Image Credit Mrs Braithwaite.

So, before we depart the South West Scotland amphitheatre permit me, if I may to take you on a final tour of the site. From the initial taxi/bus drop off point you would traverse through the tents to the wristband collection point then onto the main entrance which in reality was a hole in the wall.

Opposite the entrance you could purchase a stage times list before turning left past the funfair, circus or cinema, dependant on what they chosen to incorporate that particular year. Onwards past the Acoustic Tent, behind which in later years there was a craft beer and Mojito tent.

At the apex of the hill was the shop, Third Stage and Solus and Scooter Tents, of which the latter in the early years resembled a Mash Tent where they had stellar DJ’s playing. From here, you had a superb vantage to watch the Wickerman burning at midnight on the Saturday night. I seem to recall one year they had a little mini golf course next to the statue.  

Traversing down the hill rolled you past the VIP area and main beer tent, where occasionally bash em up bands would play. In the natural bowl was the main stage followed by the Dance and Silent Disco Tent. Just in advance of fully circling back to the main entrance you would find the fabulous Reggae Tent which was always erected on an incline. This tent was a regular final stopping point of the evening where you could purchase a hot mug of tea and a flapjack whilst being dually soothed by the Bob Marley inspired soundtrack and stoned by the pungent aroma permeating all around.     

A couple of years later, when in attendance at another Scottish festival, one of the gig brethren said the festival was good, but it is not Wickerman and we all murmured in assent, I can think of no more fitting epitaph than that!