Tag: Can

Gigs Abroad Part 29 Cologne – Part 1

Cologne is the fourth most populous city in Germany and is located on the River Rhine and was totally rebuilt after World War 2 when 80% of the original city was destroyed by a grand total of 45k tons of bombs dropped by the Allies. It lies 14 miles in a Northwestern direction from Bonn, which was the former capital of West Germany from post war until 1990 and then remained the seat of government of the reunified Germany up to 1999, before both roles were hoovered up by Berlin.

Like many German cities, there are some fine structures including two basilica’s, the Great St Martin Church and the gothic and impressive medieval Cathedral (Kolner Dom) which is located adjacent to the Hauptbahnhof.  The Dom had the accolade of being the world’s tallest building during the 1880’s and even to this day remains the third tallest church and the tallest cathedral in the world.  It was originally built to house the Shrine of the Three Kings, alternately known as the Three Wise Men (most certainly not Uncle George, John Dewhurst and myself!) who reputedly presented their three gifts of gold, frankincense and myrrh to baby Jesus.

Cologne Cathedral. Image Credit Unsplash.

It has a considerable musical heritage as the city contains over 60 music venues and has the most pubs per capita in Germany, many stocking the tasty local beer called Kolsch, which also doubles as the name of the local dialect. It is also famous for Eau de Cologne; a perfume created in the early 18th century and is still produced there to this day.

There was a huge outdoor music festival held there between 1993 and 2006 called Musicfest am Ring (Ringfest) where allegedly 2 million people attended the 1997 edition. Various famous and local German bands played including the fabulously named ‘The Piano Has Been Drinking’ and international acts such as Sparks, Cardigans and Motorhead performed.  Famous people from the city include Nico from Velvet Underground and the Krautrock pioneers Can were formed there in 1968.

The Piano Has Been Drinking. Image Credit genius.com

My first visit to the city was in 2007 and it was also my virgin lads trip and my first ever sojourn to Germany, and I instantly liked the vibe of the country. We stayed near the river, and I recall us walking past one of the fan parks that was used for the previous years World Cup that had been held in the country. One of the matches that took place at FC Koln’s stadium was England’s final group game, a 2-2 draw versus Sweden.  

We naturally visited various brahauses and I remember them lifting the kegs of Kolsch directly from the cellar to the bar area and then pulling a plethora of schooner size glasses of ale. They then maintaned an ongoing tally by notating the number on a beer mat, in one particular place there were a considerable number of lines when ‘Jimmy the Kitty’ went to settle up the bill.   

Jez Catlow took us on a tour around the vibrant pubs of the student area and later retrieved me from a fast-food joint where I was found devouring a giant bowl of chow mein! We also visited a hostelry where there were two macabre dolls whose heads rotated the full 360-degree circle and they were singing Kraftwerk’s ‘The Model’, a rather surreal sight. We met a couple of young Armenia Bielefeld fans who were in high spirits as their team has just reached the pinnacle of the Bundesliga top division.

Our day trip was out to the aforementioned Bonn where we visited a vinyl bar but unfortunately it was poorly timed as on entering I only heard the final notes of an AC/DC album. We also dove into a unique sports bar that didn’t do what it said on the tin and actually show any sports, so we had to rely on one of the chap’s phones to check the football results.   

Bonn. Image Credit dutchwannabe.com

In another bar Uncle George decided to have a dabble on the fruit machine where it was difficult to understand the mechanics but with the barman generously deciphering for him, he proceeding to fleece the machine. When the munchies finally struck we located a gastro pub with some lovely tucker and Uncle George had his now famous ‘Pan of Fish’. Many of the lads were also distracted and somewhat smitten with the statuesque blond frauleinwunder who was our host that afternoon.

Manchester Venues 118 to 120

A couple of months ago in February 2024 I undertook a solo Friday night foray into the city to attend a gig at the Manchester Yes venue.  I had noted prior to setting out that there was an additional performance taking place in the Manchester Yes Roof Terrace which tallied up as my third separate venue in that establishment.  So up the stairs I headed to the top floor to catch Keltio (Nassa) & Josh.

Manchester Yes Roof Terrace. Image Credit Manchester Evening News

On that same night, in a break between sets of the band I had gone to see, I sallied next door to pay a quick visit to Manchester Lass O Gowrie. I have previously paid a fulsome homage in an earlier blog to this venue, and I will not repeat myself here, but suffice to say I have an enduring affection for this venerable old public house. It has many original features and was named after the title of a poem scribed by Scottish poet Lady Caroline Nairne.

The one element I had missed was the opportunity to catch live music there. This omission was rectified on this night by a performance from Tom Fairview and also by earlier performances in February 2022 from the Blues Boys and Tom Mooney who all played towards the back of the pub near the entrance to the beer garden area. To square the circle the latter performance referenced was prior to attending a Nordic Giants show at the Pink Room venue in Yes.

So, one further tale pertaining to Lass O Gowrie if I may. One of my very learned Twitter muso contacts Cath Aubergine brought to my attention a remarkable and unexpected gig she attended there in 2012. There was apparently a monthly residency around that time run by Valentine Records called TAGO>MAGO>, at their final event they became aware of the fact that Damo Suzuki of Can fame was in the country and remarkably managed to persuade him to play a backstreet pub in Manchester.

Lass O Gowrie pub with the Yes venue in the foreground. Image Credit oxfordroadcorridor.com

In my previous Lass O Gowrie blog, I told the story of seeing the cast of Coronation Street in residence at the pub. This must have been a running theme as on the night of the Damo gig the cast of Waterloo Road had a bit of a do there and some of the crew were still in the venue when the gig took place.

When you reach the bottom of the steps adjacent to Manchester Oxford Road station you discover a triangle of pubs, The Salisbury, Thirsty Scholar and Manchester Grand Central. The latter named is a four-storey building located on Oxford Road directly opposite the Principal Hotel. The pub is placed within what was known in 1820 as ‘Little Ireland’, an exceedingly poverty hit slum area at that time. In 1900 the landlord Peter Bostock was listed as one of the licensees who were suspected of selling unadulterated beer which resulted in arsenic poising causing 70 deaths.

It has had many names over the years, Oxford Wine Bar, The Oxford, Schooner Inn, Cork & Screw, The Shady Lady and Beef & Barley (a Steak House). The current name was based on the proximity to the nearby station and a nod to the more well known New York train station. They used to have a club downstairs called Subway which closed in 2002 but there is current talk of possibly reopening it.  The pub was a regular stopping point for punters visiting prior to attending the now defunct Jillys Rockworld nightclub.

Grand Central pub. Image Credit myhospitalitysolutions.co.uk

The musical genre of the establishment is strictly in the rock/metal domain, similar to the Pub in Lancaster. They used to hold a Tuesday night Battle for Bloodstock event with local bands competing for a slot at the Bloodstock Metal Festival in Derby. Additionally, bands play free of charge on a Thursday though that seems to have thinned out in recent years.

I have attended three times, and they are all either before or after scheduled gigs at nearby venues. My first attendance was in November 2012 prior to a Tame Impala gig at the Ritz and the band on stage that night were called Gridlocked. I visited four months later and saw Deformation of Man from Sheffield and their heavy sound had them being hailed as the Steel City’s answer to Lamb of God. My final appearance was in July 2018 where I witnessed another noisy combo called Prometheus.