Manchester Venues 203 to 204

Withington village is a small suburb in Manchester which is positioned four miles south of the city centre. It was a largely rural area until the mid-19th century before burgeoning during the Industrial Revolution into its own distinct enclave.

It’s geographical location close to the two Manchester universities results in it being a popular student location, but not as populous in that regard as nearby Fallowfield. In the area is also Withington Community Hospital and Christie Hospital which is home to one of the largest cancer treatment centres in Europe, the latter being the location of the world’s first clinical drug trial which took place there in 1944. The village became linked to the metro network when its own station was created in 2013.

There was a local Souchay family who lived in the area in the 19th century, and they were related to the wife of German composer Felix Mendelssohn. Mr M visited the area several times and his last British tour in 1847 incorporated performing on the freshly installed pipe organ in the local St Pauls Church before he passed away six months later at the cruelly young age of 38.   

Previous alumni include the travel correspondent Judith Chalmers, actors Ben Kingsley, Robert Powell and John Maloney (who played Frasier’s dad), cricketer Michael Atherton, broadcaster Martin Sixsmith and Alan Erasmus the co-founder (alongside Tony H Wilson) of Factory Records and the Hacienda.

Withington is about a 45 minute walk from our current residence via Fog Lane Park, which has a topical reference as it contains the playing fields in the current film The Corinthians of the all-conquering women’s football team in the 1950’s.

As you progress down Wilmslow Road past the Christie you swing by a few shops and takeaways before reaching the oldest building in the village, the impressive 17th century Red Lion pub, which was previously a coaching house. They produce a decent Sunday roast but their claim to fame in my book is their outdoor space.

Red Lion beer garden. Image Credit Facebook.

Now, I was blessed in Preston to live across from the Withytrees pub which had the biggest beer garden in the city, but the Red Lion has one twice that size with room for at least 100 punters and is tree fronted on two sides which provides a perfect sunspot to imbibe a couple of cold ones.  

Further on you reach the Orion public house which was named after the original landlord who served on the HMS Orion in the 1850’s and it is a proper no frills throwback hostelry. Nearby to there is a mural commemorating local footballer and campaigner Marcus Rashford.

Across the road, down a side street was the Wilderness Record Store, which was a small bar and music venue. I was lined up to go to a gig there in 2022 but unfortunately it closed permanently before I was able to make a visit. 

Back on Wilmslow Road you then arrive at Manchester Fuel Café, which is a thriving vegan café and bar that has been in situ there for around twenty years. It is a cosy establishment, and they undertake quiz nights and host gigs in the small, cramped space upstairs.

Manchester Fuel Cafe. Image Credit Facebook.

I discovered Fortitude Valley around the time of their excellent self-titled debut album which I highly recommend and I was then delighted to discover they were to play at the Fuel Café in July 2022. The driving force of the band is Laura Kovic, originally from Brisbane, and their name is derived from an area within the city. She then relocated to the UK and is now based in Durham. She served her apprenticeship as a keyboardist in Tigercats before forming the current combo in 2018.

It was a steaming hot day, and you could feel the humidity as your headed up the stairs. It was on a par with summer gigs in years gone by to see Snuff in New Cross and Big Black at the Boardwalk.

Thankfully the band were excellent and created a joyous energetic sugar-coated racket on stage and I was thoroughly entranced with my fave tracks on the night being ‘The Right Thing’ and ‘It’s The Hope That Kills You’. The evening concluded with a couple of drinks in the downstairs bar.  

Fortitude Valley. Image Credit punknews.org

Literally across the road is located Manchester Café Blah which from the outside has a Parisian look and indoors has subtle lighting and lots of retro film posters pasted on the walls in synch with their Thursday night Café Blah Film Club. They also host poetry nights, with the name (have you guessed it yet?) of Blah, Blah, Blah. I have also just discovered they have an Alphaville Emporium upstairs which I have not yet visited which sells art, books, vinyl and in a commendable retro step, cassettes (or mix tapes)!

A couple of months ago I heard they were staging a monthly showcase music night and was kicking my heels that evening, so I had a mulch over, obviously not influenced by it being a new venue! The gig took place in the basement which must not hold more than fifty people and I saw an abrasive set by Itchcoin.

I subsequently visited the ‘other’ Sand Bar further down the street where I had an unexpectedly terrific pint of Theakstons, which took me back to its 90’s heyday.  I enjoyed it while perched on a hugely comfy settee obviously reciting the lines in my head, ‘on the chaise longue, all day long, on the chaise longue’.  

Gigs from Abroad – Part 15

In the years from 2016 to 2018 we decided with some friends to undertake an annual jaunt to visit the Christmas markets in Germany.  In the first year we headed to Stuttgart for my debut appearance there, and it was appropriately exceptionally cold. The city is the largest in the state of Baden-Wurttemberg and is in close proximity to the Black Forest and is also Germany’s ‘car capital’. Famous previous residents include the footballer Andreas Muller and the current Liverpool manager Jurgen Klopp.

The Stuttgarter Weihnachtsmarkt is one of the largest and oldest Christmas markets in Europe comprising of over 280 stalls in the city centre. It contained an absolutely superb model railway, an artefact I am always eternally fascinated by. Our accommodation was next to the Sudheimer Platz and in the corner of the square was Germany’s first ever funicular built in 1929. It is virtually still in its original format including the old cable car which is in itself a listed building! It takes you on an interesting 550 metre journey on a 28% gradient up to the hilltop area of Waldfriedhof.  

Stuttgart Christmas Market. Image Credit europenbestdestinations.com

In 2018 we returned and this time desired to head out on a train trip to another market and Esslingen was referenced to us as a good place to visit. The market town is located on the River Neckar and lies about 9 miles southeast of Stuttgart and one of its twin cities is Neath in Port Talbot.  When there we traversed up and down the considerable number of lung busting wooden steps to reach Esslinger Burg, the old fortress which once protected the city and the accompanying panoramic views.    

The main rationale for our visit to the town was to attend their famous Medieval Christmas market and the olde world ‘Game of Thrones’ vibe of the event was very enjoyable. It felt novel as alongside the obligatory food and drink and traders selling other wares they had jugglers, minstrels, acrobats and fire magicians. There was also musical entertainment in two separate areas thus we saw a band called Oro on Esslingen Market Stage 1 and a chap called Gudbrugger Goldstein on Esslingen Market Stage 2.   

In the middle year we headed to Heidelberg, and this was the second time I had visited the city.  Heidelberg has considerable history in that around 400,000 years ago ‘Heidelburg Man’ died in a nearby town and his jawbone was discovered in 1907. It was subsequently confirmed that his remains were the earliest evidence of human life in Europe.

The city is in the same large state as Stuttgart and is in the warmest region of the country and also contains Germany’s oldest University, founded in 1386. The city hosted the 1972 Summer Paralympics and famous residents include Friedrich Ebert, the first ever president of Germany, racing driver Nelson Piquet Jr, German football manager Hansi Flick, musician Jackson Browne and actor Michael Fassbender of 12 Mens A Slave and X-Men fame. They were also referenced in Harry Potter as having a high quality Quidditch team called Heidelberg Harriers!

We encountered another funicular which is used by 1m passengers annually. It heads up to Konigstuhl where on our visit we encountered some snow showers, the halfway point is the Castle where we took a break for a beer in the huge bar room.  

Heidelberg Funicular. Image Credit klook.com

Our train trip that weekend was over to Mannheim, which is an anachronism for a German city as the streets are built on a grid pattern (like Glasgow) and are numbered accordingly, this quirk results in its nickname of the Square City. One more famous Mannheim resident to cite here is one of the finest ever tennis players Steffi Graf.

I recall having a sally around a huge department store where there was a comfortable seated area showing Saturday afternoon football on several TV screens which unsurprisingly was populated by primarily the male population! Whilst in attendance at the Mannheim Market we saw the Mannheim Brass Orchestra.

On our last night in Heidelberg, we made the catastrophic error of imbibing too much vino tinto creating a perilous journey the following day. Two further challenges abounded, the first that it is a 50-mile commute back to the airport involving a couple of changes on the rails.

The second was the below freezing weather resulting in us waiting on the runway for an interminable time at the vast Frankfurt Airport before fortunately being given the all clear to depart. Prior to setting of we then had the strange and unfamiliar experience of the plane going through the equivalent of a car wash to clear off the snow. We had a very early night when we arrived home that evening!

Before I depart this week, I want to pay my own homage to Steve Albini who died this week at the tender young age of 61. He was an excellent music producer and undertook the task by concentrating solely on enhancing the band which resulted in hardening Wedding Present’s sound and creating my favourite Pixies album ‘Surfer Rosa’, amongst many other achievements.

Steve Albini on stage. Image Credit rollingstone.com

I caught his later band Shellac once, but my abiding memory is witnessing the intensity of Big Black when I saw them on their penultimate ever British date at Manchester Boardwalk in 1987. The gig gods smiled on us as we only heard about the date on John Peel four days before and queued at the venue at 8pm to obtain one of the last remaining tickets, an unforgettable night!