Manchester Venues 221 to 222

It has been cited here previously that there were many sections of Manchester in the 1980’s and 1990’s that were still harking back to the Industrial Revolution era. An example of this was the large Spinningfields space located in a square bordered by Bridge Street to the north, Quay Street to the south, Deansgate to the east and River Irwell to the west. It consisted of a suite of grubby back alleys and tenement buildings and even the name was derived from the dark satanic cotton mills heyday.

The Manchester bombing of 1996 resulted in a comprehensive regeneration programme across the city including Spinningfields which went through a £1.5 billion gentrification phase over the next decade and was labelled by the marketeers as the ‘Knightsbridge of the North’. It was loaded up with various bars, restaurants and boutique shops over the 22-acre (89000 square metre) site with 16000 punters employed. The old magistrates court and the Manchester Evening News buildings amongst others were demolished as a result.  

Spinningfields. Image Credit Visit Manchester.

So, if you enter via Deansgate your first landmark is the impressive John Rylands Library which is well worth a visit and beyond there are the Australasia, Hawksmoor and the sorrowfully named Sexy Fish restaurants.

Nearby is a posh cocktail bar called Manchester Dear Sailor with three separate menus and drinks called Pecan Mai Tai Yuzu Meringue Martini if either of those delicacies happens to float your boat! Their blurb outlines they are inspired by the premise of 1930 Tokyo speakeasy bars and there are gentle house rules including that gentlemen cannot approach ladies unless they have already made the first move.  

One afternoon I happened to be trundling past on my way to the train station after work and the doors were wide open and live music assailed my lugs. I hung around for a spell and caught a portion of the Steel Band Boys set and their Caribbean influenced beats.

Dear Sailor. Image Credit spinningfields.co.uk

As you continue your circuit onto Quay Street you roll past Schofields Bar and the Opera House and then reach No 1 Spinningfields. This structure was built in 2014 and gained a highest new entry placing as the fifth highest building in Manchester and they house various accountancy and law firms and also have a large M&S food hall on the ground floor. At the top of the tower block you would find 20 Stories restaurant.  

In the central thoroughfare behind there is the Manchester branch of The Alchemist and The Ivy, the latter which Gill and I attended after her graduation. Further down New Quay Street you reach River Irwell and there is the obligatory branch of Slug and Lettuce.

There is a bridge over the river to the New Bailey estate taking you past the long gone Mark Addy pub and through to Salford Central station. However, the bridge has been closed for a couple of years now whilst awaiting repair thereby making my work commute slightly longer. This is also the location for commencements of tourist boat trips down the River Irwell.  

Onto Bridge Street you then alight outside the award winning People History Museum which after several previous homes settled in its current location in 1994. Artefacts there include Peterloo Massacre memorabilia, ex-Spitting Image puppets and Michael Foot’s inimitable donkey jacket. Last year it was included in the city’s art trail with all 48 of the instruments in the guitar trail exhibited there with additional donations from Oasis, Doves and New Order. Our new prime minister Andy Burnham recently chose the venue to deliver his first major speech after announcing his Labour Party leadership bid.  

You then pass the Civil Justice Centre which opened in 2007 and is known locally as the ‘filing cabinet’ due to its design shape. It was quite a ground breaking venture as it was the first major court complex built in Britain since 1882.  On that main drag there is the grand old freemasons Manchester Hall building and the Indian restaurant Dishoom with their breakfast Bacon Naan Rolls.

The ‘Filing Cabinet’. Image Credit insidehmcts.blog.gov.uk

To the rear of there is Manchester Oast House, which is designed based on a resemblance to an olde-worlde Yorkshire barn and was a brick by brick rebuild of a reclaimed 16th century oast house which was located in Kent, for which its original use was for brewers when roasting hops. It was originally a pop-up temporary location when it opened in 2011 but proved to be so popular it became a permanent venue. I have attended a couple of Christmas do’s there, one in the indoor building and another in the marquees that they install for the winter season.   

Oast House. Image Credit morningadvertiser.co.uk

There is a large outdoor seating space with two alfresco bars and a bespoke bandstand for live music, and they hold monthly festivals that are very well attended. I have seen seven acts there, either on post-work drinks or a cheeky Sunday visit on sunny days and they have all been comprised of cover acts.

Manchester Venues 184 to 185 – Piccadilly Gardens

Christmas markets are essentially street bazaars which are linked to the celebration of Yuletide and traditionally take place within the four-week Advent window. The initial concept of them evolved in the last knockings of the Middle Ages and mainly in the German speaking areas of Europe. Early mentions of December markets roll all the way back to Vienna in 1296 but the first recognised reference to a Christmas market was the Striezelmarkt which took place in Dresden in 1434.

They are large open-air gatherings with food, drink (traditionally mulled wine) and seasonal goods for sale. The food offerings can range from Nussknacker (candy toasted almonds) and Christstollen (stollen). The markets undertook a significant modern day revival in the 1990’s and spread their wings to a considerable number of European cities. The first occurrence in England was in Lincoln in 1982 before the larger cities caught the bug with the commencement in 1997 of the Manchester (Frankfurt) Christmas Markets,with the German city initially providing support.   

Manchester Albert Square Christmas market. Image Credit whatsonmcr.co.uk

I have attended a couple of actual markets in Germany including an excellent one in Stuttgart where the facilities now include additional elements such as ice rinks, funfair rides and my own favourite model railways which I am eternally fascinated by. The Manchester shindigs have always personally felt like a paler imitation of the originals. However, despite my reservations they have grown exponentially from the inaugural version which was based solely in St Anns Square into the hugely popular event it is nowadays with three hundred stalls now dotted across many parts of the city with a large footfall attending.

It used to create a considerable nuisance when attending December gigs and then encountering a plethora of inebriated punters on astoundingly busy trains back to Preston. Also, my commute back home after work requires me to devise a different route than normal to reach my destination of Piccadilly station.   

The central hub of the markets was always Albert Square but that has been closed for restoration for the last few years, but it is planned to be reopened for this year’s event. In the interim one of the main areas centralised around Manchester Christmas Market Piccadilly Gardens.

In the 18th century this particular location was donated to the city by Sir Oswald Mosley, Lord of the Manor of Manchester on one fundamental condition that the space be retained in public use in perpetuity.   

L S Lowry ‘Piccadilly Gardens’ picture. Image Credit King and McGaw.

The Gardens were initially designed as an ornamental sunken garden after World War I on the former location of Manchester Royal Infirmary, the Infirmary then moving to its current location down Oxford Road. Prior to building the gardens other schemes including building an Opera House or a new location for the Cathedral were proposed but then discounted. The local painter L S Lowry also utilised the backdrop for his 1954 painting titled ‘Piccadilly Gardens’.

It was subsequently flattened out in 2002 with a central water feature and a concrete pavilion designed by the Japanese architect Tadao Ando with a curved concrete wall to obscure the metrolink line, this all resulted in an overall cost of £20.7m. It is an extremely rare green space in the city centre and contains a transport hub with buses and trams running directly through and adjacent to it. For many years prior to its move to Oldham Street, the famous Piccadilly Records was also located nearby.

Within the village created, room was made for a stage for the purposes of providing musical entertainment. Within the auspices of the 2023 event, I saw an act called General Drummer play there.

Earlier this year another innovative shindig was initiated via the generation of the Manchester Piccadilly Gardens MCR Live Hub with a stage located in another corner of the Gardens. It was designed as a city centre gathering point taking place between early July until the end of September and was part of the wider MCR Live 25 event which deliberately coincided with the Burnage Boys comeback tour.

Manchester MCR Live Hub Stage area. Image Credit ihmanchester.com

Other attractions were the Music for the Senses trail containing murals, mosaics and Guitar Street (located in reality on King Street), where you could find 50 donated guitars, some from musicians including Doves, PINS and Pixies. Commendably at the curtailment of the trail the instruments were auctioned to raise funds for grassroots venues and music projects across Greater Manchester.

Manchester artist Lazerian also created a Cathedral of Sound, a sound installation built from hundreds of reclaimed acoustic guitars. The Live Hub area was staged fully outdoors to embrace the weather in the summer months and contained a bar, street food and a plethora of beer garden picnic tables. They had DJ sets and live musicians, and I saw a couple of local artists called Sabrina and Gordy performing there.