Manchester Venue 113 – Aviva Studios Festival Square

Every couple of years they hold the Manchester International festival with various events dotted around the city. They do however always have a central hub and in 2023 this was based at the new Manchester Aviva Studios. It has been constructed on the former site of Granada TV studios and is located on Water Street which can be accessed either via Liverpool Road from the Deansgate side or New Quay Street from the Spinningfields side.

The germination of the idea occurred following George Osborne’s Northern Powerhouse announcement in 2014, where £78m was pledged to build a purpose-built cultural space in central Manchester. It was remarkably UK’s biggest investment in a culture project since the Tate Modern in 2000.

Manchester Aviva Studios. Image Credit confidentials.com

It is run by Factory International and Aviva paid £35m for the naming privileges. It subsequently opened in June 23, but was somewhat predictably £130m over budget and 4 years behind schedule. Contained within is a 1600 seat flexible theatre and an open industrial 5000 capacity space.

The opening event was the Yayoi Kusuma psychedelic exhibition You, Me and The Balloons and this was latterly followed by a Matrix style dance event directed by Danny Boyle. They will stage sporadic music events with Underworld already having performed there and Richard Thompson and Adrianne Lenker from Big Thief playing later this year. The Studios have had mixed reviews thus far with accusations as to whether it could be classed as white elephant, but I will let others make their judgement on that potential synopsis.

In an adjoining outdoor space, in the first fortnight of July they set up the Manchester Aviva Studios Festival Square overlooking the River Irwell and the shamefully underused Ordsall Chord (Castlefield Curve) which runs between Oxford Road and Victoria train stations.

There was a stage set up and a choice of food outlets and the first ever beer vending machine I have encountered. There were events all day and as it was less than 10 minutes’ walk from the office I filled my boots with bonus gigs every lunchtime and post-work where I could.

I assisted this approach by changing my commute to the metro, to ensure I could head to the nearby Deansgate station for the tram home. The festival programme coincided with the annual Castlefield Bowl events, and I passed the entrance on a couple of occasions where there were hordes of fans gathering for Pulp and Hozier gigs.

Aviva Studios Festival Square. Image Credit prestigeeventsmagazineblog.com

The first act I saw on the lunchtime on 04/07 was Vulva Voce, who are an all-female string quartet but with added improvisation of folk aspects to the mix. They evolved from the nearby Royal National College Music (RNCM) and they were the winners of Nonclassical’s Battle of the Bands in 2023. On the evening visit that day I witnessed a young R&B singer from Wolverhampton called Karis Jade.

The following lunchtime I saw Mabon Jones, Dan Springate and Carmen Snickersgill who were badged under the local Bothy Project who promote chamber music in Manchester. On the teatime jaunt I met Gill, and we grabbed some food there whilst watching Emer (Fat Out) and a R&B artist called Chyrsalid Homo. The best act was Lavender Rodriguez (or alternatively just Lavender) who was born in Hampshire but now Manchester based who provided a pleasing slab of heavy afro-beat sounds.

Lavender Rodriguez. Image Credit aah-magazine.co.uk

The following week I caught K’in Ensemble, a 15-piece fusion collective again deriving from RNCM who combine classical, pop and jazz musicians from Mexico and many European countries. I also witnessed part of a set from Jenna G. There was then another Bothy Project featuring musicians Jenny Dyson, Lady Lamp and Alice Roberts. Krin was the next act I saw who mashed up West African drums with techno. The final act of the festival for me was Nxdia who born in Cairo in Egypt before moving to the UK at the age of eight. She retains the heritage of her youth by singing in both English and Arabic.

Gigs from Abroad Part 8 – Madeira

In late August 2022, we visited the island of Madeira for the first time, it has had an interesting history since it was first discovered and inhabited by the Portuguese in 1419. Their initial chief export was in the sugar industry, but this trade was eventually superseded by the infinitely more successful Madeira wine. They like many other countries sat under the auspices of the British empire before being returned to Portuguese rule in the 19th century.

They finally received their independence and autonomy on the 1st July 1976, and they are evidently proud of this status as they are mainly reliant on homemade produce with very few imported goods. One of these that I sampled regularly was their devilishly good pastries and cakes, especially their pastel de nata custard tarts! They even had a Cake of the Day at the hotel, now who could resist the comparison challenge set there! It was also refreshing to see that they served only the island brewed Coral beer.

Pastel de Nata cakes, don’t mind if I do! Image Credit My Gorgeous Recipes

The main town Funchal is an intriguing place to visit with its vibrant old town and keeps you fit via walking up some seriously steep hills. The island is the birthplace of footballer Cristiano Ronaldo and he has an airport and a hotel named after him and a statue situated on Funchal harbour front.

We rode the scenic cable car up from the town to the top of Monte, but I did find it a challenge from a vertigo angle, so needed to find an alternate way to return down the hill. The toboggan was not running but the No 22 Bus was available. The subsequent bus ride turned out to be one of the highlights of the holiday as he literally flew down the hill round hairpin corners and woe betide anyone in his way, and then there was the dramatic braking to stop at the sporadic bus stops en route!  

On a musical front, we caught a singer called Sonia who was playing in Madeira Carlton Pestana Pub, which was located at the top of a particularly lung-busting incline. On the harbour front there was the Madeira Promenade Kiosk were a band called Kawana Pacha performed, and I recall them playing a rather dodgy Abba cover!

We were fortunate that whilst we were visiting the seventeen-day Madeira Wine Festival was taking place on the walkway of Avenida Arriaga in front of the Cathedral where you could sample many of the local vinos. On the night of our attendance the musical backdrop was provided by Sena Collective.

Mr Ronaldo and I. Image Credit Gill Crossthwaite

In the old town there was a terrific open market called Mercado Dos Lavradores where they had on display amongst many other items an extraordinary amount of vibrant looking chillies. Attached to the market was the Madeira Apuaza Café where we saw the Jazz Quarter play.  

If you turned left out of our hotel away from the town, this took you to the more hotel touristy area. One decent bar on this route was the Madeira Hole in One, where a local act Gustav was singing, and he performed a decent version of the archetypal ‘Quando Quando’.  

Further down this road brought you to a fine bar called Madeira Nos Copos Cocktail Bar. They have bands on there every night and to a sufficient demand that there is a makeshift stand outside the venue that we were too late to access. As a result, we grabbed a spot in the adjacent bar next door to watch a decent band called Hoje Para Animar.  

Our hotel room was up on the 13th floor and provided a fine view of the Madeira Carlton Pestana Pool Bar where wesaw a local singer called Gabrielle play a set including a commendable but somewhat extended loungecore version of ‘Wicked Game’ by Chris Isaak.   

The following evening from the exact same vantage point we could see over to the adjoining exclusive Madeira Reid’s Hotel. This viewpoint was now resembling a lite version of the flats overlooking Castlefield Bowl or Lytham Festival!

There was a wedding taking place and the singer was approaching the end of their set. Now you would surely in the circumstances expect happy ‘looking to the future’ tunes which made the choice of the penultimate song even more bizarre, as she then broke into the unmistakeable intro of Gloria Gaynor’s ‘I Will Survive’!