Manchester Venue 114 – Albert Square Festivals

One of the most famous buildings in Manchester is the neo-gothic Town Hall which obtained Grade 1 listing status in 1952 and currently houses Manchester City Council and other local government staff. The town hall was completed in 1877 after a nine-year build and the small matter of the usage of 14 million bricks! It contains within the Great Hall, which is adorned with Ford Madox Brown’s Manchester Murals, there is also the impressive Clock Tower which is 85 metres high which even has a singular name for the clock bell, Great Abel. 

Manchester Town Hall. Image Credit citybaseapartments.com

The Town Hall’s resemblance to the Palace of Westminster resulted in it being used as a location for the original 1990 version of House of Cards and the BBC drama State of Play. The venue was in fact used to announce the result of the 2016 Brexit referendum.

However, a report in 2014 highlighted the urgent need for modernisation and essential repairs to be undertaken on the building. Subsequently it was closed to visitors in 2018 to undergo a £330m renovation. I have read in the last month that due to ongoing pandemic impacts and the rise in pricing of materials the original completion date has pushed back from July 2024 to provisionally summer 2026.

The building faces St Peters Square to the South and Albert Square to the North. Due to its size and location, the latter named has been used for events and public gatherings including memorials commemorating the Manchester Arena bombing.

It is also a perfect site to host music events so in July 2018 I attended Manchester Albert Square Festival Hall when the 9-day Manchester Jazz Festival was taking place. I grabbed a couple of opportunities to dive into the site for some bonus gigs when heading from work to Manchester Oxford Road station for my commute home. On the first occasion, I saw Minor Swing and on the second I witnessed Squid Ink.

Manchester International Festival. Image Credit ilovemanchester.com

In March 2019 they also had a St Patricks day festival gathering around Cheltenham races time, and I saw the Ceilidh Boys at that soiree. A couple of months later when attending the Dot-to-Dot festival I managed to catch a bonus act called Gobe Band there at a separate event taking place on the square as they were not part of the festival roster of my event.

In 2019 the bi-annual Manchester International Festival took place with the hub location being Albert Square. It was a relaxed set up with lots of food outlets and a couple of real ale tents and with music starting at noon I also had a sally over at lunchtime on the days I was in the office. They set up the music stage under a covered marquee with comfy seats and I always had room when I visited, but I heard it was extremely busy when The Orielles and Working Mens Club played a late evening set there.    

The Orielles. Image Credit soundofbrit.fr

Thus, my first attendance was on 05/07/19 when a group of us were in town and we headed to the site and happened to see House of Ghetto. On my next visit I witnessed Chloe Foy, a singer-songwriter from Gloucestershire who subsequently released her debut album ‘Where Shall We Begin’ in 2021.

The following day there was a Welsh oriented bill hosted by 6 Music DJ Huw Stephens. He introduced a Welsh-language pop band called Gwilym (translates as William), who sounded like they have been influenced by their forebearers Super Furry Animals. Mary Anne Hobbs also hosted a 6-music show on the festival site in a temporary DJ booth and there was the obligatory appearance from the omnipresent John Robb.

The following week I saw a seven-piece local band called Kara. On the lunchtime the next day I witnessed a solo singer Matthew Whitaker and after work the artist was Hannah Ashcroft, a local indie lass who has collaborated with Beth Orton and had support slots with BC Camplight and the Lathums.

My final appearance was when I met up with Gill and we grabbed some tea on the site. Playing that day were acts called Aim Sky High and One Little Atlas who are a local two-piece dream pop combo. They had an ethereal sound and have composed a couple of film scores and have had the opportunity to play at unusual venues such as John Rylands Library and the Whitworth Art Gallery in the city.

Phoenix Festival

The third and final time I have witnessed Neil Young was at the Phoenix Festival on Friday 19th July 1996. It made history as the first ever 4-day festival in the UK. The festival site was located at the cavernous disused Long Marston airfield near Stratford Upon Avon. Gill and I obtained a day ticket and we grabbed some lodgings in Stratford.

It was a staggeringly hot day, one of those exceptionally sultry days that only occur in Britain every couple of years. Before we left the digs and due to the weather, I observed the most gigantic spider I have ever seen, resulting in the door being summarily shut on it and by our return it had thankfully departed….

There wasn’t much forward planning involved as Gill and I were wearing varying degrees of inappropriate footwear and for some inexplicable reason we decided to walk to the site.

Out of the town led onto a winding country road and you could hear the throb and the thrum of the music but after a sustained period of walking the sound didn’t appear to be getting any nearer. We passed a farm with an entrepreneurial punter selling freezing bottles of water from an outdoor fridge. Not long after that we managed to cadge a lift to the site from a kind punter in a passing motor.

See the source image
Phoenix Festival 1996 Flyer. Image Credit theprodigyontour.com

We landed late afternoon and first caught Nylon Bombers, an unspectacular Britpop band from Cheltenham who subsequently broke up later that year.

We caught some of the sets of Manic Street Preachers and Super Furry Animals on the main stage. We saw Dodgy whose upbeat track ‘Staying Out for the Summer’ could not have been more apposite!

I enjoyed a Foo Fighters set which was an early career performance from them, the highlight being ‘Monkey Wrench’.

The main support act was one of those artists who was a passing fad at that point in time. Alanis Morrisette went down well with a fair proportion of the audience, but I find it all a tad bland.

Neil Young was backed up by the ever-dependable Crazy Horse. It was by a long way my favourite performance as he was in crackling form and fabulously loud. He opened with a fine trifecta ‘Hey Hey My My (into the Black)’, ‘Down by the River’ and ‘Powderfinger’.

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Neil Young and Crazy Horse onstage at the Phoenix Festival. Image Credit JamBase.

He softened in the middle with a couple of ‘Harvest’ tracks, but it was mainly a guitar fest. The first encore included ‘Cortez the Killer’ and ‘Like a Hurricane’ and the second encore peaked with an outro of ‘Rocking in the Free World’. A superb set overall as he played a lot of my fave tracks. He came off stage after midnight.

John Peel tells the tale that he was the first person to bring Neil over to Britain in the early 70’s and they had kept in touch since. He was there that day and endeavouring to bypass the security staff to obtain permission from Mr Young to play live his set on Radio 1. He finally got the green light with 4 tracks remaining. Later I obtained a bootleg tape of the gig and the recording suddenly morphs from a raggedy sound accompanied by audience voices and footsteps crunching plastic beer glasses to a crystal-clear sound as it moved into the radio level recording.

We made our way to the 100-strength queue where the shuttle buses were due to depart from. After 30 minutes of complete inactivity it quickly become evident that no buses were on the horizon and there was no sign of any taxis either.

The only remaining option was to walk back. There were many stragglers tumbling down a dark windy country lane, all jumping out of the way as cars approached. At certain points, there was a small brook by the side of the road which a giggling drunken lad tumbled into.

After what felt like an age, we turned a bend and saw the water fridge from earlier and I was in full ‘Mr Motivator’ mode despite tears in corner of my eyes as I knew how far we still had to travel. Gill was literally hobbling behind me by this stage. We refer to it now as ‘The March’ and can laugh about it (just!).

The lights of the town finally appeared, and it was about 3.30am when we stumbled into an all-night garage for some much needed water and snacks!